Raven's
Roost
Located just off the parkway, this climbing area offers easy access and a great view on a clear day. There are several trad and top roping climbs (the anchors for top roping are spread out, so bring lots of webbing or static rope). Be aware of the folks up above. Loose rocks and bottles have been known to fall down on climbers without warning from up above, DON'T FORGET YOUR HELMET! Special thanks to Matt Murry and Travis Overstreet for their time and help in collecting the following route information.
Directions
Take I-81 North to Staunton. Turn right
onto I-64 East, Exit 221 to Waynesboro and Charlottesville. At the
summit of Afton Mountain take Exit 99 and turn right onto Route 250 East.
Turn right immediately off of Route 250 East to the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Head South on the Blue Ridge Parkway to mile marker 10 and look for the
large parking lot off to your right. You are standing on top of Raven's
Roost. If you are looking out over the cliffs, reach the bottom of
the cliffs by walking around the cliffs on a trail to the left.
Routes
1. Road Warrior 5.6 Tope Rope
First climb as the approach trail reaches the
bottom of the cliffs. Five feet to the right of Black Streak, follow
the natural flow of the rock up to the left (past an old rusted out bolt),
to a horizontal off width crack above Black Streak. Top out through the
notch.
2. Black Streak 5.8 Tope Rope
Follow obvious black vertical strip up through
the notch. Bucket low on right is on at the start, follow crimpers
up, just to the right of the streak, balancy. Top out through the same
notch as Road Warrior.
3. White Punks on Dope 5.11+ Tope Rope
Five feet left of Black streak, follow negative
face up and to the left.
4. Ejector Seat 5.9+ Tope Rope
Five feet to the right of Wise Crack, work up
to the bucket 15 feet up. The crux is pulling out of the seat (ejector
seat) Pull-out of the bucket with left hand pinch and then launch
off a right foot smear to jug above the seat with right hand. Follow
crimpers up and out above Wise Crack
5. Wise Crack 5.8 Trad or top rope
Obvious flaring off width crack, 30 feet to the
left of Black Streak. Crux about 15 feet off the ground. Crack ends
at the top of the spire (40 feet). Classic awkward off width climb.
6. Kermits Revenge 5.6 Trad or top rope
Around the corner from wise crack to the left
of the Hemlock tree. Follow obvious crack up through the notch to the small
pine. Table rock is the flat boulder wedged n the crack near the
top of the climb (watch for rope friction if top roping). Classic 90 foot
climb.
7. Black Snake 5.7 Trad or tope rope
Follow Kermits Revenge to the orange block halfway
up the climb. Late day shadows create a black snake climbing down
the face. Follow the curve of the snake out and to the left and up
the face.
8. Cups 5.6 Trad or tope rope
Follow Kermits Revenge to the bottom of the orange
block and climb out to the right and the yellow lichen and climb up the
right face. Top out on top of Table Rock.
9. Twisted Ankle 5.8 Top rope
15 feet to the left of Kermits Revenge. Look
up to the 44 GT graffiti. Above the T in begins a layaway fin up to the
left which tops out on a small horn (can be top roped from Kermits Revenge).
Follow the jugs up and back to Kermits Revenge.
10. Zig-Zag Notch 5.5 Trad or tope rope
Farther around the corner by the large Yellow
Birch, follow the weakness in the rocks and weave your way up the face
to the notch. This climb is directly below the parking deck so be
aware of falling objects and the glass around the face.
11. Unnatural Ice 5.4 Trad or tope rope
Follow the obvious crack up and to the right.
Like Zig-Zag Notch, this climb is directly below the parking deck, so be
aware of falling objects and the glass around the face.